Across the tideway
Not so many years ago, when the cross-river panorama was a scene of depression, many wharves were derelict, lacking the graceful cranes which were once busy around West India Dock. The cross-river foot tunnel was once an essential link to the acres of working docks. The extraordinary sight of a floodlit cruise ship importing bananas contrasting with the acres of dereliction as trade moved further downstream to the realm of new container ports.
I can recall taking my mother to board one of Fred Olsen’s ‘boats’ for a winter cruise to and from the West Indies. Nowadays giant office blocks are still under construction lining the once-busy wharves. Since then we moved down to Crane Street, a humble section of the Thames Path contrasting with the glory of Wren’s great masterpiece, now a thriving university campus. Tripper boats from London turn about just here, ideal for tourists a glimpse of the gorgeous Trafalgar Tavern, the humble Yacht pub and rowing club next door.
Alas, the wild weather had diverted regular rowers to exercise in their new facilities’ purpose-built gym next door across the alleyway. Care needs to be taken to traverse the busy cycle way and exercising runners, popular even in the worst of storm ‘Dennis’, which threatened our trip to Oxford to celebrate Caroline Dixon’s 80th in the Ashmolean Museum. It was great to see all the family and friends from yesteryear. We used to meet up with the Dixons at Henley Regatta for a dip and supper after the racing had finished. The Thames Valley in high summer provides a bucolic scene beyond compare. Once a Greenwich neighbour, Stephen Dixon was a keen rower, a member of the Poplar Blackwall and District Rowing club on the Isle of Dogs close by the Greenwich foot tunnel with its own riverside club house and slipway.
The Ahoy Centre in Deptford has its own facilities for rowing and features Thames traditional craft for enthusiasts who wish to take part in the traditional race up to Richmond and beyond each summer, a race which attracts some 250 craft – an amazing sight.