The Trafalgar has just been dressed overall with newly-installed union jacks, hoisted on all sides including humble Crane Street. Four have also been installed on the Trafalgar’s flank wall and a set of windows revealed replacing thosse bricked up over the kitchen so folk couldn’t peer into the engine room of the hospitality venue.
Frank Dowling, who hails from Manhattan, took over the establishment from Dillon Wood who understood the significance of this British landmark that celebrates our national hero. Naval units from every seafaring nation used to line their decks to receive the expected salute from the Royal Steps of the Royal Naval College; the handsome gates were opened for the duty officer to take the salute, often escorted by a guard duty mounted by the Inspector of the Admiralty Police.
It was the custom that visiting naval vessels passing upstream lowered their ensigns in respect as commanded from the Bridge. If well briefed and warned, landlord Dillon would organise a salute in response to those gathered and called to attention by firing a small signal cannon and lowering his ensign in respect. Visitors and the Greenwich Police were always informed of this ceremony.
Nowadays there is no requirement for this interesting gesture as the University of Greenwich and Trinity Laban thrive within these historic buildings. The upkeep and care of estate management is of the highest standard and they should be congratulated on their upgrading whenever possible.
Do visit this famous tavern and inspect the amazing collection of naval and maritime craft captured by various artists through the centuries, many acquired from Dick Moy’s collections of Greenwich through Frank’s diligence in spotting those works at the auction held in their grand ballroom.
I should report on a maritime drama just off shore on a neap tide, when a small yacht took to going into Newcastle Dock on the Isle of Dogs after a dramatic incident. The elderly skipper took the unusual opportunity to run aground. Before you could say ‘Jack Robinson’ the RNLI rib based at Waterloo appeared in the company of the fire brigade rescue float, the River Police and the Port of London’s Harbour Master launch – a very impressive turnout, much to the embarrassment of the Skipper. I know how he felt, having experienced a similar incident in my youth up on the River Colne at East Mersea!!
The first cruise ship arrival early on the Spring Bank Holiday created a stir amongst local riverside residents and visiting tourists who thronged into Maritime Greenwich in the glorious sunshine.
The Port of London’s floating cruise terminal was spick and span back in its summer mooring just off Deptford Creek, known as Greenwich Ships Tier; believe it or not, tidal waters flush out a suitable deep water mooring. ‘Welcome’ was a homemade job created down at the PLA’s yard at Denton just downstream from Gravesend, created out of a floating barge with added accommodation reception areas so that passengers can board ship-to-shore tenders in an orderly manner.
‘Viking Sun’ – a Norwegian cruise ship – was the first of the seasonal visitors, followed by ‘Silver Cloud’. She stayed over the weekend and was indeed my birthday treat. To top that, two other medium-size cruise ships followed in taking moorings up in the Pool of London, one alongside HMS Belfast, the other cruised up toward Tower Bridge and turned about aided by a tug at the stern to saunter down to ‘Welcome’ on the evening ebb.
The proposed new ‘London City Cruise Port’ development at Enderby Wharf has run into political objections from the Green Party at the recent local elections. Objections are to the constant 24-hour power generator from ships’ engine rooms polluting the already suspect air quality. I kept a wary eye on the visiting ship funnels to see the effect during this surprisingly hot weather. Journeying in y car from Kent we noticed low-lying pollution over our part of town, even more noticeable as aircraft approached City Airport through a murky haze.
My recommended birthday treat is to meet the family down at Faversham’s Creekside ‘Italian’, an old brick warehouse set by the tidal creek and Thames barges, and to be served a delicious luncheon with a friendly atmosphere. (Posillipo at Provender Mill, Belvedere Road, Faversham)
An early departure down the M20 to Hollingbourne where one climbs up and over the Downs through lanes winding through valleys and orchards in fresh bloom, a gentle descent down to the marshes of the Swale and dinghy sailing adventures of old – to beat the traffic returning to our Thameside home and then to watch the splendid departure of a great ship passing by into the sunset on an ebb tide… ah me! 85 isn’t that bad!!
…after a long, enduring spring which hid our lofty neighbours over in Canary Wharf from view. The low clouds and mist enwrapped even the tallest construction cranes, their essential navigational highlights only just visible! Flights in and out of London City Airport were cancelled, emphasising the isolation of the Isle of Dogs from its partners – thanks goodness for Eurotunnel.
Aerial views of the capital intrigue one and all, as they thread through and over some amazing landmarks. The O2, sited on the Prime Meridian, is indeed the superb landmark for passengers lucky enough to have window seats if approaching from the East. I was, indeed, lucky to be invited up front with the pilot to follow our passage over the Thames inbound from the Continent, reminding me how the Luftwaffe navigators found London such an easy target during the Blitz. The devastated docks, in fact, helped the birth and development of this new trading post, as did the East India Company of old. The Royal Docks have at last attracted the expected development For the curious an outing by DLR to Beckton or, indeed, Woolwich will easily reveal City Airport’s recent extensions. Arrivals and departures are best viewed from East London’s University Dockside campus, easily reached at Beckton Park station. A stroll along the Heron Quays will also amaze, as development to the East and West have nearly doubled the Canary Wharf Estate.
I can’t believe it’s over thirty years ago that I first saw the test flight onto Heron Quay initiated by Reg Ward, the LDDC’s first Chief Executive. The ‘touch-and-go’ exercise was backed by Mowlems who financed and built the City Airport complex in the Royal Docks just where my sailor brother John’s Royal Mail ship ‘Loch Ryan’ used to unload Argentinian beef!! Vivid memories of the working ‘Royals’ where ships were loaded with export, moored stem to stern with fleets of lighters and Thames Sailing Barges in attendance.
Nowadays fleets of incoming and outgoing aircraft join the merry-go-round provided by the O2 landmark with its great white Dome as they align for Heathrow, while City-bound aircraft make their final approach with flaps and wheels primed for landing. Departing aircraft climb at full power to clear Canary Wharf’s lofty towers.
A thrilling flight on the Emirates Airline cable car provides similar exciting views which I ‘highly’ recommend. A return trip will permit wonderful river and dockland panoramas as you cross high above the River Thames.
I helped illustrate Reg Ward’s dreams of even more Thameside developments down at Tilbury, which have been partly realised just before he passed away.
With the sounds of sabre-rattling very much in mind, I was privileged to take in a preview of ‘The Battle of Trafalgar’ as painted by David Gommon at The Greenwich Gallery, which runs until April 29th.
A vivid sequence of the artist’s impressions is described by Brian Lavery, Curator Emeritus of the Royal National Maritime Museum in a limited edition book available to order from the Gallery. Brian is a local neighbour, as is also the famed Trafalgar Tavern – another treasure house of Nelson’s genius.
Last year Judy and I were whisked around for a week by the Laverys, visiting Historic Ships of Britain for a magical personal tour, beautifully organised, fed and watered and escorted around the major maritime venues in Portsmouth, Southampton, Bristol, here in London and down to Chatham Dockyard. The small party of Naval enthusiasts from across the pond were treated to a detailed tour around various historic dockyards, including on-board visits to Nelson’s ‘HMS Victory’ and nearby ‘HMS Warrior’ and a personal escort around the Mary Rose Museum by Chris Dobbs, an original member and diver of the project. In contrast, a visit to the RN Submarine Museum, tea at sea on board Thames Sailing Barge Alice for a tour around the Naval Base to view HM Ships (new aircraft carriers!!).
Then to Southampton Sea City Maritime Museum and by coach to go on board ‘SS Great Britain’, a boat trip around the docks, and then staying at Avon Gorge Hotel with its views across Brunel’s Suspension Bridge. Next day viewing maritime treasures at Greenwich and on to board HMS Belfast and a final dinner at the Trafalgar Tavern – what a treat!!
Brian is offering another tour 26th August to 2nd September 2018. Enquiries: firstname.lastname@example.org.
Coinciding with the lowest of tides, a group dressed in wet suits gathered at the waterline and, after much discussion, cast a net in to the briney at its lowest point of the ebb tide and then hoisted ashore their catch – a pair of Dace which they inspected minutely through their magnifying lens, and retreated back to the sandy beach line for an even closer inspection. Suddenly I recalled that last year a similar visiting team from the Zoological Society in Regents Park. As curious as ever, I challenged the picnic party who reaffirmed that a monthly inspection will be played when the water gets warmer!
Another unusual sighting was the passage of a grey patrol boat from the border patrol? This time of a rib design which would permit shallow water operation. The three-deck bridge carried radar domes and aerials ready for instant detection. Alas, I couldn’t spot any other identification.
A more familiar craft under way was a floating ‘conservatory’ restaurant based near Charing Cross; this time stripped of tables and chairs and, of course, dining guests, she was bound for a boatyard somewhere to undergo a refit. Also back on the tideway after the Easter break, a purposeful tug-like tender suitable for moving mechanical plant on and off the various construction sites which serve the Tideway tunnelling enterprise.
A further piscatorial thought comes to mind that – even today- Deptford Creek plays an important role as a nursery for many new fishy residents in its mile-long course through Greenwich up to Deptford Bridge. Years ago the famous Parliamentary Whitebait Feasts were held at my neighbouring Trafalgar Tavern, supplied by local fishermen who once harvested the local Thames speciality as well as eels, much loved by Cockneys of old!
Alas, fishing fleets were forced to move from these polluted waters up to Grimsby and fishing grounds as far away as the cod-rich Newfoundland Banks. Also on this falling tide, ‘Bert Prior’ coaster leaves the Norman Road Brewery Wharf aggregate depot bound for its replenishment pier just downstream of Gravesend and, of course, tug-handled barges full of London’s rubbish bound for the Cross Ness treatment plants and landfill sites. Inbound, up river, fuel tankers creep upstream to dodge under the bridges to refuel their working craft and houseboat customers.
The second phase of essential refurbishment was signalled by the removal of the downstream brow which bridges the gap between the shore line and the floating pontoon. A giant floating crane barge was required to do the lift and take it to a suitable wharf – perhaps the PLA facility at Denton just downstream from Gravesend where ‘Gloriana’, the Queen’s Royal Barge winters. The following day the downstream pontoon followed its twin to be refurbished – either at Denton or at Devrills floating dock facility just downstream at East Greenwich.
News of a new pier to be installed on an existing facility at the Intercontinental Hotel together with a café will provide tourist and river path users with another attraction, giving exciting views of Canary Wharf’s new high rise towers now under construction. The top floor of that hotel provides even more exciting panoramic views which I recommend to one and all. To have an evening drink up in this luxurious environment gives an overview of the fast-developing quarter around the O2 down towards the Thames Barrier and up to the City – best before dusk to see the illuminations brighten the sky in Docklands and later the river reflections.
Across the tideway immediately to the North at Leamouth is Trinity Buoy Wharf, an arts centre with the only lighthouse in London and the depot jetty of Thames Clippers. Close by at Good Luck Hope is another riverside residential development by Ballymore built in traditional dockland style overlooking the O2 and the dramatic Blackwall Reach and once the entrance to the historic East India Docks.
Further up the Lea, a multi-block development at City Island provides a self-contained ‘village’ formed by the oxbow of the tidal river which runs up to Stratford and beyond.
On the spur of the moment on a bright, spring-like Sunday, we decided a trip on the fast ferry up to town and back would be a joy. A gathering at the pier was quickly shepherded down to the landing pontoon and aboard, and we were on our way before the incoming tripper boats arrived from Central London.
Many other families, some with push chairs, boarded at various piers as we criss-crossed the tideway avoiding the occasional scullers and rowers who also use the river at weekends.
Passengers disembarked at the Central London piers bound for numerous attractions on both sides of the river. On our return trip we picked up passengers from Tower Pier bound for Greenwich. We were amused and amazed at the different age groups and nationalities, all handled with skill by the mooring crew and on-board stewards.
On the next day, Monday’s London-bound commuters were serviced just before PLA Titan’s floating crane came alongside the Greenwich Pier to change the pair of pontoons, due to be worked on at nearby Devrills (Victoria Deep Water Wharf) floating docks. I was on the lookout for the many civil and maritime engineers hard at work on numerous sites. I have never seen so many before – no wonder as a whole new raft of major projects have come on stream! An extract from the Times includes a map and details of various projects. A visit to the Tideway site at Bermondsey clarified my interests in SE London – I include items which might be of interest.
The Bermondsey site at Chambers Wharf for ‘Tideway’ (Once a giant cold store)
A new extension site into the Thames is clearly shown below Tower Bridge