We’ve enjoyed the start of summer early as the geese and other early birds on Island Gardens wake up, their calls crossing the silent river as Canary Wharf dreams away. We also hear the dawn chorus from the great Greenwich Hospital Estate, bereft of students, its gates firmly closed to one and all.
No Thames Clipper or incoming aircraft wake us from our slumbers as the capital has shut down because of the dreaded plague. Just the sound of determined runners sprinting by making up for their cancelled marathon. No early rowers from our next-door rowing centre or the splash and rattle of blades as crew set out for their Sunday practice. No commuters chattering their way along our Crane Street ancient passageway to and from their daily business chores.
An on-going project means re-reading Samuel Pepys’ accounts of regular rendezvous with John Evelyn up at the Kings Dockyard in Deptford. This helps me with my graphic visualisation of the Elizabethan manor house at Sayes Court and the peace of those remarkable gardens which so impressed the great and the good. Further investigations made me aware that, just next door to the dock wall in the Royal Dock, an iron foundry was busy building those fine and interesting naval vessels which worked all the hours of daylight. Perhaps we are experiencing the quietest time ever on our great maritime waterway. That’s a thought to savour and enjoy.
This long-lasting project at Deptford can be viewed from my studio’s upstream vista, over both the Rowing Club and Trafalgar Tavern roofs up to Creekmouth with the Royal Dockyard beyond including the Master Shipwright’s House and Convoys Wharf on the bend of Greenwich Reach. Part cleared building land and the famed early Georgian Olympic slipway cover an extensive waterfront all awaiting development. It’s my intention during lockdown to depict various aerial views aided by the excellent monograph published by the Museum of London following the extensive excavations of 2000-2012.
April Riverwatch – From the highest to the deepest.
New reflections revealed across Greenwich Reach
These bright Spring ‘lockdown’ mornings reveal a new joy as the rising sun sparkles on the skyscrapers, forming far-reaching reflections across the tideway.
The last of the solitary high-perched cranes help to tidy up South Quay’s loftiest new build opposite central Canary Wharf – a twin block cheekily sited at an angle to the waterfront, a much admired use of a dockside location close to South Dock DLR.
All is of interest to those who wish to live and work in this premier financial centre which I am sure will survive with its dramatic views across docklands, the river, the startling Canary Wharf architecture, and with the dignity of established Greenwich just across the river a few stops on the DLR. Developers need to complete projects soonest!!! So I have been keeping a beady eye on the crane operator – 70 floors up!!
Meanwhile, under terra firma, tunnellers for the Super Sewer under Deptford Creek need to keep going, so tug-driven barges are bringing raw materials in, including tunnel sections. The essential removal of spoil keeps pace with the use of smaller tugs which can pass under rail and road bridges.
Their passage to Creekmouth is awaited by ‘mother’ tug to haul the heavily loaded spoil barges downstream. They join in the NHS support action by exchanging hooter signals to riverside supporters at the appointed time. Bravo!!
The ebb and flow of the Thames invites leisure craft to get up and go, especially when the SW winds blow setting the sailing craft from Ahoy off for a spin downstream, the escorting tender and youngsters at the ready for a sail back to base at Deptford HQ.
A classic yacht motored down from St Katherines Marina, escaping to open waters away from the capital. A long Dutch houseboat headed upstream from her winter quarters on her way to moorings beyond the capital perhaps. Another classic sailing craft of Dutch origin headed downstream alongside ‘Devout’ – one of our local tugs – on to a summer mooring.
Also using the ebb, our only sand ballast ship plying the tideway on her daily mission heads downstream from Fulham to just beyond Gravesend where she will load another cargo of freshly de-salted, sea-dredged aggregate from the Thames Estuary. Remarkable to think of that Foulness sand bank passing by…
John Greenleaf used to run the Prior fleet out of my home port of Colchester (Fingringhoe Wharf just opposite Wivenhoe) – a daily service to Brewery Wharf on Deptford Creek, where the cement mix was added and then dispatched to building sites here abouts.
As a lad I used to cycle around the Fingringhoe pits – an adventure playground – and wave goodbye to the loaded coasters London bound. Alas, this historic daily service is no more.
Tug ‘Devout’ returns to base after her 50-minute job.
Unexpected swings of weather extremes are certainly making a mark as London, yet again, reacts to them. New panoramas open up as great storms rearrange the usual grey outlook which citizens associate with March, and spring threatens to burst upon us revealing storm-cleared vistas through the trees prior to the welcome return of a leafy London.
The tide line is also rapidly changing as once-hidden pier pilings and extensive chalk reefs are exposed by the increased speed of river traffic and tidal flow, once used by our forebears to utilise level riverside moorings. Riverside moorings, once used by our forebears, have fast become obscured from sight as riverside loading into the once-crowded warehouses is now replaced by vast new distribution centres linked to the M25 hinterland. New developments rely on a hard, modernised, concrete waterline, and we see the original tidal marshland acres rapidly disappear.
On once-marshy Greenwich Peninsula, the last giant gasholders are unpicked for redevelopment as this busy spine is readdressed for a network of new cross-river tunnels, and access roads attempt to relieve the dense traffic trap of the essential north-south Blackwall Tunnel.
Alas, the ancient river crossing at Woolwich is being frustrated by manning problems as new vessels have been introduced. Especially relevant as giant new residential areas, due to be served by the proposed DLR extensions to the east, loom over the old Dockland zone around City Airport – perhaps snarling up the giant new wholesale markets planned to ease Smithfield, Billingsgate, Covent Garden and such.
Just now, the view from my studio window towards Canary Wharf is remarkable well beyond the Dockland dream, as skyscraper office buildings contend with neighbouring new residential skyscrapers to outsmart the City of London, Mayfair and Dubai!!
One cannot ignore London’s ancient river superhighway as Father Thames provides a rapid ferry service for both passengers and cargo. New craft abound, recently built especially for the conveyance of spoil from the riverside tunnelling complex for the new super sewer’s construction sites all along the tideway and waterway network serving the capital, together with additional passenger piers serving new residential schemes both upstream and downstream right into the heart of the capital.
Not so many years ago, when the cross-river panorama was a scene of depression, many wharves were derelict, lacking the graceful cranes which were once busy around West India Dock. The cross-river foot tunnel was once an essential link to the acres of working docks. The extraordinary sight of a floodlit cruise ship importing bananas contrasting with the acres of dereliction as trade moved further downstream to the realm of new container ports.
I can recall taking my mother to board one of Fred Olsen’s ‘boats’ for a winter cruise to and from the West Indies. Nowadays giant office blocks are still under construction lining the once-busy wharves. Since then we moved down to Crane Street, a humble section of the Thames Path contrasting with the glory of Wren’s great masterpiece, now a thriving university campus. Tripper boats from London turn about just here, ideal for tourists a glimpse of the gorgeous Trafalgar Tavern, the humble Yacht pub and rowing club next door.
Alas, the wild weather had diverted regular rowers to exercise in their new facilities’ purpose-built gym next door across the alleyway. Care needs to be taken to traverse the busy cycle way and exercising runners, popular even in the worst of storm ‘Dennis’, which threatened our trip to Oxford to celebrate Caroline Dixon’s 80th in the Ashmolean Museum. It was great to see all the family and friends from yesteryear. We used to meet up with the Dixons at Henley Regatta for a dip and supper after the racing had finished. The Thames Valley in high summer provides a bucolic scene beyond compare. Once a Greenwich neighbour, Stephen Dixon was a keen rower, a member of the Poplar Blackwall and District Rowing club on the Isle of Dogs close by the Greenwich foot tunnel with its own riverside club house and slipway.
The Ahoy Centre in Deptford has its own facilities for rowing and features Thames traditional craft for enthusiasts who wish to take part in the traditional race up to Richmond and beyond each summer, a race which attracts some 250 craft – an amazing sight.
Living on the riverbank of the Thames is full of surprises. By day and by night, the tides sweep in and the strong winds compete with gusto. Dawn is always too early as the bright office lights of Canary Wharf financial centre shine right into the heart of our house.
Incoming freight of engineering supplies bound for the numerous upstream construction sites of London’s new super sewer utilise the incoming tide in order to navigate alongside the new wharves. As soon as they are off-loaded, they return with the tunnelling spoil for downstream landfill sites.
Last Wednesday I was taken down to Maldon in Essex, home of numerous Thames sailing barges, in order to collect a load of spring potatoes and other seeds from the High Street emporium bound for the Cross family allotment in Greenwich, which is the pride and joy of Anthony and Sarah Cross.
David Patent – Master Shipwright of Maldon – with PWK discussing retirement
We enjoyed a light lunch with a local shipwright at a Creekside pub where the crew of ‘May’ were applying the red ochre stain to the canvas sails stretched out flat on a concrete quay space which is not available at their London base in St Katherine’s Dock.
The Kent family have sailed from here in ‘Repertor’ and on ‘Ironsides’ to take part in barge matches on the rivers Blackwater, Colne and Orwell, also on the Swale and Thames Estuary… So memories come flooding back of happy family times.
Now a sharp wind plays havoc with tarpaulins stretched over next door Trafalgar’s spring clean to the ancient roof; at the same time to the council flats in nearby Eastney Street. Believe it or not, seven Union Jacks fly from neighbouring buildings in Crane Street as well as a startling floral display on the flank wall of this historic watering hole!
History repeats itself as yet again as Greenwich plays yet another role in power sharing, when yesterday the majestic setting of The Painted Hall just across the road hosted PM Johnson explaining his post Brexit strategy.
PS Be sure to pop into the ‘Traf’ with its spectacular riverside bar, splendid in historic artefacts and paintings collected by landlord Frank Dowling – Bravo!!
It’s great to take it easy, armed with my binoculars on the ‘top deck’ overlooking the incoming tide with its white horses as the wild wind from the west attempts to impede incoming craft , creaking bow waves and spray as the super-wide barges are pushed upstream to service the numerous super sewer working wharves.
A whole new fleet of gaily painted lighters and their attending pusher tugs. This huge project has necessitated the Thames watermen to re-equip with new, purpose-built kit and, of course, fully trained crews – a real stimulus. The vast number of Tideway super sewer projects is dependent on skilled watermen to keep the tunnellers going on this massive enterprise.
Dodging this traffic, waterfowl patrol their food chain. A flock of cormorants gathered to celebrate their annual courting event at this busy stretch of water (just off Enderby Wharf). They show off to one and all their white flash of feathers just aft of their wing ‘mountings’ as they dip and dive before the oncoming fleet of tugs. Amongst all this activity, a family of four swans traverse the river walls feeding off riverside plants. By chance I came across the same family up at the head of Deptford Creek just where fresh water of the River Ravensbourne reinforces the saline tideway at Deptford Bridge. Having had a Sunday lunch at Efe’s café in Trafalgar Road, a homeward bus bound for Peckham gave me the opportunity to inspect the new Creekside gardens, part of a Fairview residential development open to all! This was the subject of a public meeting convened by the Ashburnham Residents’ Group to put pressure on planners to adopt this type of public garden to all of the new Creekside developments.
At the Friday evening meeting of Ashburnham Triangle residents (once an area of marshland adjacent to the Creek which forms a desirable residential zone full of interesting folk!!), Mick Delap – a poet and BBC World Service retiree – is still a great communicator and held his audience of 120 spellbound. Thus inspired, I have added a graphic illustration for those who don’t know the whereabouts of this hidden seaport of yesteryear.
Within sight are six skyscrapers near completion in Canary Wharf’s thriving business centre, their lofty cranes have completed their task. The original skyscraper at One Canada Square has lost its pertinent presence as its neighbours jostle in mostly over 50 storeys high.
It was a complete surprise to glimpse from my DLR train a gleaming white tall ship gliding majestically to her designated mooring at West India Quay – a rare sight indeed. So I doubled back to view ‘ARA Libertad’ with her cadet crew lining the taff rails, all anxious to get ashore to view the glamour of the occasion and the anticipation of shore leave after their mammoth journey across the oceans from Argentina.
In complete contrast, we had the privilege of having the ‘Winters’ to tea to report on their circumnavigation around the UK in their small white yacht, Nova. The Oxford-based couple had vowed to mark their oncoming retirement with a well-planned trip around England up the East Coast up to the Hebrides, then down St Georges Channel via Liverpool and Dublin, the Welsh coast around Lands End, and back home in the Solent (email@example.com). I enjoyed making sketch maps of this.
Meanwhile Father Thames has become more revitalised as new tugs and lighters are brought into serve the giant super sewer along numerous river and Creekside sites. The giant tunnelling machines exude massive amounts of spoil from their excavations deep under the City.
This contrast will not only be remunerative but will last for many years, the specialist tugs and lighters operated by traditional watermen.
The fleet of Thames Clippers, resplendent in new corporate colours, have been hectic shuttling tennis fans to and from the O2 – the vast sporting arena in the Dome. A new pier has been added to serve commuters for City Airport, and an additional destination may well be planned for the ever-extending network at Barking, as our capital keeps on expanding.
A big thank you to the Othens who have managed to read my scrawl and prepare my sketches for your pleasure over many, many years!!